Why You Should Add Epidermal Growth Factor To Your Skincare Routine

What is epidermal growth factor?

In the 1986, scientists won the Nobel Prize for discovering Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), which is a polypeptide that naturally occurs in our skin. This protein communicates with cells to prompt them to regenerate. As we age, collagen and elastin production decrease, as does the production of EGF. EGF is now a popular ingredient in many skincare products because it serves to increase cellular turnover and stimulates  collagen and elastin. In turn, this leads to increased skin elasticity and plumper, firmer skin.

Where does EGF in beauty products come from?

EGF is acquired for skincare products from different living cells, which can include cells from plants, animals, or humans.  Chemists can now synthesize EGF using genetically modified barley seeds and plant cells have become the popular source of EGF.  These cells can communicate with surrounding tissue, which in the case applying EGF to the skin, leads to skin regeneration.

Why can EGF usage be considered controversial?

One argument against the effectiveness of EGF is that scientists know that EGF molecules are too large to penetrate the skin, which would render them ineffective. This fact is not debated among experts. Where the difference in belief comes about is in whether EGF can be effective in increasing skin thickness, and improving lines, wrinkles, and texture without penetrating the skin. Many experts now know it can be effective to apply EGF to the skin surface where it communicates with skin cells to initiate “the stimulation of your dermal fibroblasts sparking collagen growth” (Geesin, 1993). This communication leads your own skin cells to increase collagen production.

Why should you use EGF?

This naturally present peptide helps prevent wrinkles, encourages a more even skin tone, and increases moisture. As a bonus, it can prevent dark spots caused by sun damage. "When applied as a topical ingredient, its effects on the skin may be to stimulate collagen and elastin, thereby improving the skin health, tone, and barrier function," says Dr. Shirley Madhère founder of Jet Set Beauty Rx. EGF is considered an effective active ingredient for skin rejuvenation because of its ability to communicate with you own cells to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin which leads to healthier skin. In addition, it works well with other skincare products and is safe to use for many different skin types, including sensitive skin.

How do you use EGF?

EGF can be applied in the AM and PM as a stand-alone application or layered with either retinol or vitamin C.  If combining products, in the morning, cleanse your skin with a gentle cleanser, then apply EGF serum. Allow to dry then apply vitamin C serum followed by a good moisturizer. In the evening, after cleansing your skin, apply the EGF serum and allow to dry. Follow by applying a retinol cream.

Final thoughts…

EGF is an exciting skincare additive for mature skin that communicates with your skin’s own cells to rejuvenate the skin. In addition, continued EGF usage improves your skin’s texture and elasticity while strengthening your skin’s barrier. This scientifically proven polypeptide proves to be a useful addition to the skin-conscious woman’s skincare routine.

References:

Geesin JC, Gordon JS, Berg RA. Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate. Skin Pharmacol. 1993;6(1):65-71. doi: 10.1159/000211089. PMID: 8489778.

Schuldiner, M., et al. (2000, Oct. 10). Effects of eight growth factors on the differentiation of cells derived from human embryonic stem cells. PNAS.